“On a particularly gnarly dirt road, we came to the intersections of the unpronounceables: To the left was Hrauneyjar and the verdant coast; to the right was Landmannalaugar and the mountains and glaciers; behind us was Landmannaleid. We chose the right and headed for the mountains. From here the land becomes almost forbidding. Without the grace of good weather, it’s unhabitable, which is why no one lives there. Even in fair weather it’s a tough place. Not only are there few people, there’s little plant life or animals; even the hardy Icelandic horses stay away. No cops, no people, no traffic, but great roads. As I said earlier, this is a motorcycling paradise.”

Peter Jenks, UK

"We rode along the black sand and pulled up a couple of meters away from the vents: a number blowing sulphurous steam, others bubbling black mud. This is how Yellowstone National Park in the USA must have been 150 years ago: no signs, no people, just wild country and wonderful views."